The Bewilderness

A thirst for the green on the London Loop

After the station of Hayes (Kent), the LOndon Loop meanders south and westwards along the borders of Bromley and Croydon. The path seeks out whatever stretch of green open space divides two housing estates and gently explores ancient woodland. All of the land here is an extension of the North Downs, and the slopes become steeper as the walk trends south towards Whyteleaf and Kenley. 

The Loop shares its apth with two other ways: the Vanguard Way (completed) and the Tandridge Border Path. South of Croydon, the path is supposed to entertain the spirit of the rural. This was not my expectation or experience. A series of commons was advertised but felt like a succession of London's wilder parks. Only Happy Valley and the view back from Farthing Downs convinced me that I was part of a wider landscape.

The section from Hayes to Coulsdon South has merit but, imprisoned by the city: the promise of heath and woodland hemmed in all around, only served to leave the path wanting in a wider sense. 

Walking out of the city

The London Loop is the a walk that meanders round the outskirts of the city exploring the rich spral of woodland and heath that is preserved within the boundaries of the suburbs. A rich opportunity for discovering the hidden gems within the Green Belt. It is a welcome and wilder contrast to the Capital Ring that I completed last winter: where green often equals playing fields and parks. Not that the London Loop does not pass through similar landscapes of municipal upkeep.

Yesterday was part of my catch-up. The path starts in Erith, a former village with vestiges of beauty situated on the south bank of the Thames. The path follows the industrial estates on the shore and turns southwards down the River Cray, a waterway that gives its name to many suburbs along the way: Crayford, St Paul's Cray, St Mary's Cray etc. Despite some small moments of delight such as the reed marshes east of Slade Green and the woodlands that insulate the walker from the surrounding city, streets, cars and dual carriageways soon intrude to remind you of the arteries and veins that criss-cross your path. There are many of these.

Yet, travelling southwards to Bromley, the woods become more open, the roads die away and the scenery becomes much prettier. Until, during the final stretch towards Hayes, one is in the countryside circling the village of Farnborough and the city is left behind. It only takes twenty miles to get out of it these days. 

I walked out of the city yesterday.

Regents Canal: walking round the back of London

Canals are a tremendous way to see London from a different angle: usually from the back rather than the front. They weave their way through the suburbs, brushing up against parks and providing cheerful locales where congregations drink, eat and sell goods. Such activities depend upon the prevailing perspective. Camden Lock provides a bohemian haven, with beads and ethnic stalls (if you define Chinese entrepreneurs selling rude T-shirts as such). Little Venice is a pleasant and rather sterile pool, where grand houses and fine restaurants offer a more sedate view. Or you can prefer the poorer and forgotten paths of Mile End and Victoria Park: that becomes the route of joggers and cyclists.

All of these feature along the Regents Canal and provide a taster for what London has to offer. There are certain points that I would like to come back to: especially the houseboat bookstall.

Yet, the cleanliness of the canal does appear to depend upon the boroughs. To the east, clear stretches are punctuated by dross; to the west, its finery is more apparent: look closely and the scum is floating out of sight (in the Paddington basin).

It is a good walk for a short winter day: a modest counterbalst to the Lea Navigation: and opening up the Grand Union. The sequel beckons: oh to be in Brentford now that winter's here....